Here are the items that will rule your medicine cabinet, from upgraded tools to antiquated exfoliating substances:
It’s our responsibility at Allure to take a step back from the clamor of social media noise and new miraculous ingredients and direct you and your skin toward the products and innovations that truly merit your attention. Every day, we perform it. But once a year, we take a step back and forward so that we can inform you about the most intriguing skin-care trends you may look forward to in the upcoming year. We lack a crystal ball, but we do have a good sense of foresight. (Sure, having access to the most knowledgeable professionals in the field and all the newest products in development helps.)
So what does the future hold for each of us in 2019? The reintroduction of an old-school skin-care ingredient, at-home products that do several functions, like a Dyson Airwrap, and potential financial benefits are the major skin-care trends we believe will be most popular in 2023. Let’s see how we did in a year when we check in.
Check out the experts
Dermatology is taught in a clinical environment at the Weill Medical College at Cornell University in New York City by board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD. Director of Mohs Micrographic and Dermatologic Surgery at Brown Dermatology in Rhode Island and board-certified dermatologist Tiffany J. Libby Board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, practices in Branford, Connecticut. Board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, is a dermatologist in New York City. Additionally, she teaches dermatology as an associate clinical professor at the Yale School of Medicine.
1. There will be an onslaught of brand-new prescription topicals, medications, and lasers
Recently, we’ve welcomed the arrival of some intriguing new neuromodulators and fillers, but there have also been some less-publicized debuts of highly effective yet minimally invasive therapies for skin disorders. Additionally, there will be more. What makes this moment special? The FDA is now getting around to it, and for good cause.
Dendy Engelman, MD, a dermatologist in New York City, adds that there was a delay with [approvals for] treatments that weren’t recognized as such because “during COVID’s peak, a lot of the FDA’s focus and resources were dedicated to life-saving medications.” And while Engelman believes the skin-focused advancements that are once again beginning to receive approval are still significant, they won’t save lives. According to her, “many dermatological problems are obvious, and that might impair mental health.” The psychosocial effects of psoriasis, acne, and eczema have been the subject of numerous studies. Thankfully, in-office technology, topicals, and injectables have made breakthroughs in treating all three of these disorders this year, and it is anticipated that additional improvements will be made in 2023. This past spring saw the approval of Epsolay, a first-of-its-kind topical treatment to treat rosacea. Dr. Engelman praises another new laser as a “full game changer” for treating refractory acne.
She describes AviClear as a cutting-edge new acne therapy that works similarly to Accutane but without any of its systemic hazards or side effects. (Dr. Engelman has previously done work for the company.) She also draws attention to a further ground-breaking innovation known as Sotyktu, an oral medicine for adults with moderate to severe plaque psoriasis who are also candidates for systemic therapy or phototherapy. In New York City’s Weill Medical College of Cornell University, board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, adds the following to this list of recent developments: Dupixent, an injection approved in June 2022 to treat moderate-to-severe eczema, is the first step in what Dr. King calls “the revolution we’ve seen in treatments for psoriasis over the past 20 years” for atopic dermatitis. Olumiant, an oral medicine, was approved in June 2022, so this revolution might only be getting started for alopecia areata, an autoimmune disorder that causes hair loss.
2. A Witch Hazel Renaissance Is Here
Since Queen Victoria was a monarch, witch hazel has been a mainstay of skin treatment. Since Thayers introduced its renowned witch hazel toner in 1847, both young and old skincare fans have incorporated the botanical component into their regimens to reduce oil production and avoid acne. But due to its potential drying and occasionally irritating effects, the substance went out of style for a while.
According to Dr. King, “witch hazel is a botanical extract made from a blooming plant, and preparations have been made from its leaves and bark for centuries.” Witch hazel is a natural astringent and is frequently applied to eliminate excess sebum and temporarily reduce pore size. Be careful not to overapply because it can make your skin dry if you do.
However, witch hazel products have evolved into much more sophisticated ones since we all toner-ed our skin raw in the early 2000s. According to Dr. King, look for ingredient lists “that mix witch hazel with substances that hydrate and protect the skin barrier,” such as lavender and snow mushroom. Thayers, the first witch hazel-focused company, just unveiled the Hydrating Milky Toner, a calming sibling to its most well-known item. Hyaluronic acid and snow mushrooms are combined with the product’s main component. The addition of balancing aloe to Humphreys’ new clarifying pads helps them remove oil without the burn or redness of cleansing pads in the past. Dickenson’s new micellar makeup remover and line of toner-serum hybrids use calming ingredients like a rose to temper their hand-picked witch hazel harvest.
3. Menopausal Skin Will Finally Get the Attention It Deserves
Menopause is not a term that has been used much in the beauty industry, but in 2022, established and up-and-coming beauty brands alike have spoken about it. And we see that as an indication that, in 2023, women over 40 will receive more attention and awareness, along with their skin-care requirements.
In addition to addressing symptoms like skin dehydration and collagen loss, Naomi Watts’ new company, Stripes, wants to normalize the conversation about them. The Power Move Plumping Serum and The Dew As I Do Day Moisturizer both include moisturizing ectoine and squalane to temporarily restore volume. And it follows in the footsteps of companies like Pause Well-Aging, whose Cooling Mist has become a staple for battling the sensation of hot flashes, and Womaness, whose Daily V Soothe lotion fights aggravating vaginal dryness.
And even venerable companies are introducing entire lines devoted to issues with skincare during and after menopause: In perimenopause, or the period just before menopause, less collagen and lipids are produced, which leads to wrinkles and a loss of firmness. No7’s Menopause Skincare line, which includes a nighttime cream and eye cream high in ceramides, takes into account the sensitivity of menopausal skin.
4. Skinimalism reigned supreme once more
In 2023, highly tailored arsenals will formally replace maximalist morning skin-care regimens. Skinimalism is the use of regimens that are faster, more effective, and sometimes more inexpensive. People are abandoning 10-step programs for other reasons besides efficiency. Dr. Engelman claims COVID-19 has changed the course of events.
“We observed a large increase in impulsive internet purchases during the pandemic, which was caused by thoughtless TikTok scrolling and a lack of dermatological access.” There is less time to perform the 12-step day and evening routines now that our schedules have returned to fairly normal, says Dr. Engelman. Consumers are seeking the best deal on their purchases as well as more efficient routines as a result of their increased awareness of product ingredients, she adds: “Patients are significantly better knowledgeable about skincare as well as how they spend their money.”Despite their financial constraints, they want a treatment that works.
Dr. King highlights the expanding need for skin care items that moisturize and have a light shimmer for added radiance. Fragrance-free moisturizers, multipurpose balms and oils, and makeup-skincare hybrids like tinted moisturizers for a moisturizing glow that resembles a social filter are also sure to be popular with Gen Z-ers who are committed to keeping things simple. This desire to let our true, healthy skin shine through our makeup results in fewer products but more sunscreen layering, which is always a good thing, says Tiffany Libby, MD, a double-board certified dermatologist, and Mohs surgeon. She believes that multipurpose cosmetics like SPF-infused eye and cheek makeup will continue to be popular. Since makeup with SPF is never enough [sun protection], it is crucial to apply a base layer of SPF first.
5. At-Home Skin Care Technology Will Advance… and Get Smaller
At-home skin gadgets continue to advance in design and functionality, much like AirPods, phones, and virtual assistants. The SolaWave Advanced Skin Care Wand, a Beauty Box alumnus and favorite of Allure editors, now combines microcurrent, LED, and heat treatment in a tiny stick that can fit in even the smallest purse. Recently, Dermaflash improved its vintage device and released the improved Dermaflash Luxe+: It discreetly vibrates at a rate of 14,000 times per minute to remove hair more effectively, and its new microfine blades make even closer contact with the skin for a smoother shave and improved exfoliation. And not too long ago, the Therabody TheraFace Pro, one of the most adaptable at-home devices to hit medicine cabinets, was introduced to us. In addition to using microcurrent to temporarily sculpt the face, the handpiece has three percussion therapy attachments to ease jaw and neck strain, three LED light rings to provide various benefits, and a cleansing ring to remove oil and debris. The NuFace Trinity+, a recent Best of Beauty Award winner and now equipped with a button that raises the device’s microcurrent power by 25% for trouble spots is a good option for those looking for something tried, true, and time-tested that is also improved. By 2024, we anticipate that pocket-sized Fraxels will be available. You were the first to hear it here!
6. Your skin will keep its firmer borders.
You should avoid the trends on TikTok. (Applying jalapenos to the eyes to treat sties? We’ll forego that.) However, one of them is far from being a flash in the pan. It’s swiftly become a dermatologist-recommended method of skin care that will become standard practice in the future (or at least for the next year). Yes, skin cycling is the topic at hand. This regimen relies on a delicate balance between exfoliation and healing in order to help safeguard the skin’s protective layer. The clever technique to give the skin time to recover after exfoliation was developed by dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe, a board-certified physician in New York City. “The schedule is a four-night cycle of exfoliation, retinoid application, rest, and repetition.” By scheduling those necessary recuperation nights, you’ll get the greatest benefit from the skin-care products’ active ingredients while reducing discomfort, Dr. Bowe previously told Allure.
We’re looking to repair and maintain our skin barriers, which are the top layers of skin that shield us from the bad stuff (inflammation, irritation) and hold on to the good stuff. Other trends, like slugging and making a “moisture sandwich,” have also made it clear that we’re looking for these things (moisture and also more moisture). Retinols and peels are fantastic, and they have their place, but using them excessively can (and frequently does) cause flakiness, redness, and stinging on the face. Dr. Libby explains that the terms “skin cycling” and “slugging,” which have gained popularity on social media, “represent the shift toward simpler ingredients and scaling back one’s skincare routine to concentrate on overall skin health first.” This entails finding the right balance between solutions that reinforce the skin’s barrier and components that exfoliate (if you’re not sure where to start with those, we’ve got you covered).
7. Dermatologists are preserving their knowledge.
Following the debut of numerous celebrity brands in recent years, we are returning to product lines developed by experts in the beauty industry, including hairstylists, makeup artists, and, yes, dermatologists. Although the practice of skin doctors starting their own lines is not new, this rise is unlike anything we’ve seen since the aughts. This time, the founders are doctors who have become well-known thanks to social media; their followers want a small portion of their practice for themselves, regardless of where they live.
What features do the dermatology lines in this new line share? a thorough edit. Shereene Idriss, MD, a dermatologist with board certification and a social media skin celebrity, recently launched her own (already sold-out) company called Pillowtalk Derm. The brand’s three products are laser-focused on treating hyperpigmentation and discoloration, and Dr. Idriss’ own Instagram persona served as inspiration for the name. The four-product lineup is intended to provide you with your very own turnkey skin-cycling routine. Dr. Bowe, the inventor of the aforementioned skin-cycling idea, also debuted a line of moisturizers and exfoliators this year. Only seven recipes were developed by board-certified dermatologist Rose Ingleton, MD, of New York City, and they were all infused with Jamaican fruit extracts that are strong in antioxidants. (A Best of Beauty Award for 2022 went to the SuperFruit Brightening Cleanser.)